Chanderi Cotton is a traditional ethnic fabric that is characterized by lightness, transparent texture, and a luxurious feel. Chanderi fabric is produced by weaving silk and golden Zari yarn into classic cotton yarn, creating a shimmering texture.
This fabric takes its name from the small town of Chanderi in Madhya Pradesh, where traditional weavers practice the art of producing textured cotton and silk sarees decorated with delicate zari artwork.
Chanderi, one of the most famous loom groups, holds a special place for its centuries-old weaving specialty of producing delicately textured fabrics from silk and cotton woven with zari fabrics, especially since their saris are sponsored by the royal family.
Chanderi is known to have originated in Vedic times and is believed to have been founded by Shishupal, a cousin of Lord Krishna. Chanderi produces three fabrics: Pure Silk, Cotton Chanderi and Silk Cotton.
Also read: Knitted Wear, The Completed Guide to the Fabric
Patterns have come a long way from traditional coins, flowers, and peacocks to geometric designs. Chanderi Saree, an intricate interweaving interspersed with the delicacy of excess weft patterns, from time immemorial has satisfied the refined tastes of royalty.
Table of Contents
Types of Chanderi fabric
Traditionally, Chanderi fabric is mainly used to weave Saris and Salwar Kameez fabrics. This fabric can be classified into three types:
Chanderi Silk Cotton
A traditional Indian dress made from cotton fabric has a heavier feel. Cotton and silk chanderi sarees are made from two fabrics, cotton for the body and silk for the hem and hem. Chanderi Cotton Saree A Chanderi saree made of cotton fabric.
Pure silk
Chanderi silk saree is a light and airy fabric, made from silk threads. It has a beautiful beaded border around the bezel and is great for special occasions.
Available in a variety of colors and patterns, our Chanderi silk sarees come in a variety of colors and patterns, perfect for any occasion.
Chanderi Cotton
The fabric is pure silk/cotton, not polyester mixed, so it is breathable and does not stretch. Pure Chanderi silk cotton fabric and breathable cotton fabric. Actual product color may be slightly different from the picture shown due to lighting conditions during photography.
History of Chanderi Fabric
Since time immemorial, the city of Chanderi has been known to many as one of the finest loom clusters in India, where Chanderi fabrics are woven using cotton yarns and hand-spun cotton yarns.
But the development of this fabric began in the 1890s when weavers in the town of Chanderi replaced hand-spun yarns with factory-made yarns. But if the epic is believed, it is known that the Chanderi cloth originated in Vedic times and was founded by Shishupal, the cousin of Lord Krishna.
Also Read: Things you should keep in mind before taking something Kalamkari Art
In 1910, Chanderi sarees were patronized by the royal family of Scindia and it was during this time that the gold thread pattern first appeared on cotton muslin sarees. But under the Mughal dynasty, the popularity of this fabric reached new heights and was the preferred choice of queens in India.
In the 1930s, Chanderi weavers in Madhya Pradesh discovered Japanese silk. They began to replace sarees with cotton and thus Chanderi silk was born. Chanderi Features: The creation of unique buttis or patterns and the sheer or smooth texture of Chanderi fabric are two key characteristics that set it apart from other handmade fabrics.
Chanderi motifs
Buttis or patterns on Chanderi fabrics are mostly woven by hand on handmade looms, using needles. Separate needles are used to make different patterns.
Weavers covered these designs with gold, silver, and bronze. The patterns created by Chanderi weaving are inspired by nature and include swans, gold coins, fruit, and celestial bodies. From traditional patterns, peacocks, and lotus flowers to modern geometric patterns, today one can find strikingly beautiful patterns such as “Nalferma”, “Dandidar”, “Chatai”, “Jangla”. “, Mehndi Wale Haath, etc. adorn Chanderi fabrics.
The color palette of Chanderi sarees is mainly pastel pastels, but over time vibrant combinations of red and black, turquoise and navy, and fuchsia and white also exist.
Also Read: Floral Prints, Types and Fashion Trends
Quality
Absolute transparency or sheer texture is a unique feature of Chanderi fabric that sets it apart from other textiles produced across India. The transparency of this fabric is due to the use of unique Flature quality yarn.
When the raw fiber glue is not separated from it, the degreasing process restores shine and transparency to the finished fabric, resulting in Flature yarn.
Chanderi in Fashion
Since time immemorial, Chanderi fabrics have held a special place in India’s handmade textile industry. Traditionally, this fabric is used to weave curtains 9 meters long. But now, with a combination of traditional and modern weaving techniques, Chanderi fabric is widely used by fashion designers to create Indowestern-style dresses, tunics, and tops.
Over the past few years, fashion designers have worked closely with Chanderi weavers to design wardrobe-essentials. The sheer texture, softness, and iridescence of the fabric have fascinated many creative minds in the fashion industry.
Renowned designers like Rahul Mishra and Sanjay Garg have added a touch of luxury to this fabric with their designs.
Today, one can find contemporary creations such as dresses, coats, ruffled coats, and coats woven with this traditionally patterned handmade fabric. Creative imagination is not off the charts as designer Vijay Balhara’s passion for this fabric led him to launch a textile resort line in Chanderi, during Lakme Fashion Week 2011.
Also Read: Silk Fabric Fashion Trend, Types of Silk, The Complete Guide
In Bollywood, actresses like Mini Mathur, Vidya Balan, and Kareena Kapoor often wear this handmade fabric. In the English film Vinglish, Sridevi’s look in Chanderi cotton sarees is appreciated. Maintenance of the transparent texture of the Chanderi fabric requires special care. Chanderi fabrics should be dry-cleaned to preserve Zari’s good work. Dry in shade, and avoid direct sunlight.
Chanderi making process
Yarn Drawing
There are two types of drawing done in the case of Chanderi weaving. One is the main design of the saree which contains various aspects such as borders, type of design used, color combinations, etc.
This is usually provided by the originator. This procedure is informal in the case of the local dealer but in the case of the large dealers, a laminated sheet of paper with the design, the threads used, the placement of the patterns, etc., is obtained to provide samples to weavers.
The other is more subtle loot patterns or designs done by master weavers on checkered paper. This is provided to the weavers on the terms of the order.
Dyeing
Dyeing is an important part of the whole process because cotton and silk need to be dyed before they can be used on the loom. The dyeing process is usually done by specialized technicians who work for the merchant and are paid by him.
There are different dyes to color silk and cotton. For cotton, a ready-to-use rapid color dye is used while for silk a special dye called Sando Silk is used which is also a ready-to-use dye.
The dyeing process begins with dissolving the readily available quick dye in warm water. The threads are soaked in this solution and left for a while before being removed. Depending on the quality of the dye, they are left to soak in the solution for a while.
They are then washed in clean water and then soaked in a solution of warm water, detergent, and soda. Finally, the threads are washed again and hung on bamboo slats to dry. Once dry, they are sent back to the weavers for further processing.
Conclusion
Although Chanderi’s products have high export value, they do not have such attractiveness. It is sold in the local market. Only 10% of total production is exported while the remaining 90% circulates within national borders.
For Chanderi’s modern designs, their demand is dwindling by the exclusive and highly fashionable class of buyers. Demand is currently limited to certain dresses and evening gowns and other summer-appropriate formal wear.
We should strive to encourage local art in the area to push weavers to create better products that appeal to today’s trendy crowd. Based on luxurious, warm, breathable, and lightweight fabric, chair covers are widely used today.
They have a very effective role in the salon because they are soft, wrinkle and stretch-resistant, and water-resistant. Chanderi fabrics are known for their sheer texture, lightness, and durability which set them apart from mass-produced textiles in factories. Chanderi weavers discovered Japanese silk.
They started replacing it with cotton saree and also developed another silk to make their profit margin higher. Therefore, it is very difficult to find a genuine Chanderi cotton by cotton saree shirt at retail establishments these days.
Chanderi cotton in Bollywood
Many Indian celebrities are seen in Chanderi cotton including South and North actresses. Nayanathara, Kareena Kapoor, Trisha, and many other celebrities wear chanderi cotton sarees to award shows and events.
People love wearing chanderi cotton sarees and dresses as the fabric is soft and comfortable and looks great on everyone. Some celebrities wear chanderi cotton sarees throughout their whole movies to represent the greatness of these sarees and fabrics.
Super se upar
Everyone who love saree , would surely want atleast one set of Chanderi saree to be part of their wardrobe. It’s unique elements of luxurious feel, transparency, glamour, mix of comfort and richness as it has combination of cotton and silk yarns, it’s lightweight and use of pastel colors makes its more attractive and gives space to comfortability to carry it on whole day long. Thank you Myra for uplifting more on this topic of fabric in fashion. This blog has given us clear insight on various aspects of chanderi in fashion, it’s history, origin to it’s demand in today’s world. Thank you and keep up the good work and enhance our knowledge more and more on fashion world.
Very well researched,written,informative.